Tortola beaches, Restaurants and attractions
Tortola's beaches draw the tourist and keep the natives. The untouched natural quality of the beaches makes them so unique and incredible.
Trunk Bay is one of those untouched, unpopulated beaches that Tortola is known for. Not to be missed.
One of the most popular, Cane Garden Bay, is cradled by lush, steep hills, tall arching palms and finely crushed sand of coral and rock that is soft underfoot. Since it is the favorite, expect more people than you would see on other quieter beaches.
Other beaches to see: Josiah's Bay, Brewer's Bay, Long Bay on Beef Island.
Hiking: Sage Mountain National Park sits at an elevation of 1,780 feet. Covering 92 acres, the park protects the remnants of Tortola's original forests not burned or cleared during the island's plantation era. Intrepid hikers climb through scrubland to the island's central ridge, Spy Glass Hill.
Horseback riding: Shadow's Ranch, Todman's Estate (284/494-2262), offers horseback rides through the national park or down to the shores of Cane Garden Bay. The cost is from $50 per hour.
Exploring Deserted "Treasure Island": Across Drake Channel from Tortola lays Norman Isle. Although it used to be a pirate den with treasure ships at anchor, it is now deserted by all except some seabirds and small wild animals. Legend has it that Norman Isle was the inspiration for Robert Louis Stevenson's Treasure Island.
A private boat rental is the only way to reach Norman Isle. Contact Boat Rentals -- Moorings Limited (284/535-7289 or 284/494-2331; www.moorings.com). They rent 33-foot to 47-foot catamarans ranging from $440 to $1,420 per day for a 3-day minimum rental. A skipper on board is optional for an extra $139 a day.
Snorkeling: The caves are one of the most well-known snorkeling spots in the B.V.I., with spectacular fish, and maybe even octopus, squid, garden eel, and colorful coral.
Smugglers Cove is at the extreme western end of Tortola. A favorite local beach, it's a little difficult to reach, but worth the trek for its great marine life. It's especially good for beginning snorkelers, because the reef is close to shore and easily reached. You'll see sea fans, sponges, parrot fish, and elkhorn and brain corals. East of Cane Garden Bay is Brewer's Bay Beach, reached along the long, steep Brewers Bay Road, another great spot for snorkelers and surfers.
Botanical Gardens: J.R. O'Neal Botanical Gardens four-acre gardens in the centre of Road Town are great for those interested in the tropical flora of the Caribbean islands. Exotic flora, a mini rainforest and a lush variety of exotic indigenous plants, waterfalls and ponds will be seen on this excursion. Other attractions include the different tropical bird species and red -legged tortoises that have made the gardens their home.
Nightlife:
Bomba's Surfside Shack, Cappoon's Bay (284/495-4148), is the oldest hangout on the island, sitting on the beach near the West End. Despite its appearance, the shack puts on quite a party. Every month Bomba's stages a full-moon party, with free house tea spiked with hallucinogenic mushrooms. (The tea is free because it's illegal to sell it.) The place is also wild on Wednesday and Sunday nights, when there's live music and an $8 all-you-can-eat barbecue. Open daily from 10am to midnight (or later, depending on business).
The bar at The Moorings/Mariner Inn, Wickhams Cay II (284/494-2332), is usually busy with the yacht owners from the nearby marina.
Another popular choice is the Spyglass Bar, in the Treasure Isle Hotel, Road Town (284/494-2501), where a sunken bar on a terrace overlooks the pool and faraway marina facilities.
The Bat Cave, Waterfront Drive, Road Town (284/494-4880), is on the ground floor of Spaghetti Junction. You'll hear current pop hits playing nightly.
The Jolly Roger, West End (284/495-4559), offers local or sometimes American bands, playing everything from reggae to blues. In the same area, visit Stanley's Welcome Bar, Cane Garden Bay (284/495-9424), where a crazy crowd gathers.
Sebastian's Seaside Grill, Apple Bay (284/495-4212), features live music as well. Rhymer's, at Cane Garden Bay (284/495-4639), serves up tropical drinks and ribs with occasional steel-drum bands playing into the night.
Tower Night Club, West End (284/494-1667), is big Friday through Sunday nights for those looking to dance to a DJ.
Where to Eat in Tortola
The restaurant scene in Tortola is casual and relaxed and offers up tastes from all over the world.
Brandywine Bay Restaurant (284/495-2301), a South shore spot some call the best on the island. The romantic spot on a cobblestone terrace overlooking the Sir Francis Drake Channel is run by a husband and wife team well-known for their Florentine menu that changes daily and features only fresh produce.
Sugar Mill (284/495-4355), in Apple Bay, is housed inside a 300-year-old sugar mill which makes for a unique setting for such fine Caribbean fare as their famous Curried Banana Soup (recipe published in Bon Appetite).
Dinner at Round Hill (284/495-9353), is a five course meal compliments of Jocelyn and Allan Rhymer in their villa overlooking the Cane Garden Bay beach. Reservations are necessary for the few tables in their home where they serve up some of the best food on the island with what is unquestionably the best hospitality.
Capriccio di Mare (284/494-5369), is a local hit for offering the freshest pasta and best pizza in this small Italian cafe.
Sky World (284/494-3567), one of the best restaurants on the island, sits high on a 1337 foot peak and delivers spectacular views of the U.S. Virgin Islands and the British Virgin Islands. The restaurant has two sections, one more formal and requiring long pants and collared shirts, the other more casual. The same great menu applies to both sections. The fresh Pumpkin Soup is a favorite.
The Jolly Ranger (284/495-4559), an open air bar and restaurant, serves up stewed conch and burgers and great pizza to mostly locals. Call ahead to see about live music and entertainment.